Chapter 1: The Allure of Fried Potatoes

I often find myself pondering the delightful simplicity of fried potatoes. Known as pommes frites in France—despite their Belgian origins—these crispy delights are deceptively easy to ruin. Much like pizza, which is merely a combination of basic ingredients like flour and cheese, bad fries are all too common.

In the United States, it's rare to find a restaurant that doesn't serve some variation of fries, yet many of these offerings range from forgettable to downright awful. It makes one wonder why this is the case. Perhaps there was a time when fries in America were crafted with more care, but that era was fleeting.

The rise of McDonald's significantly impacted Americans' perception of fries, setting a standard that many have followed. Initially, their fries were hand-cut and fried in beef tallow, creating a divine taste. However, due to health concerns in the 1990s, they switched to bland canola oil, altering the essence of their fries.

While they still use real potatoes, McDonald's fries now include a list of ten other ingredients—everything from various oils to additives. What was once a heavenly treat now resembles hot, salty cardboard, losing its charm mere moments after leaving the drive-thru.

Chapter 2: A Late-Night Discovery in Oslo

On a recent night in Oslo, Norway, after a series of drinks, we stumbled upon a food truck specializing in pommes frites, the perfect late-night snack. These fries were hand-cut, thin as shoestrings, and still had a hint of their skins. Served hot and generously salted in a casual cone of newspaper, they were a revelation.

It’s possible that the ambiance of the city, the late hour, or perhaps the drinks had heightened my experience, but these fries redefined my understanding of what a fry could be. They were crispy on the outside, fluffy within, and seasoned just right—truly sublime.

I have a theory about how restaurants can set themselves apart in America. If they focused on creating exceptional pommes frites, they could elevate their status significantly. Imagine being known for the best fries in town; this small yet impactful dedication could attract customers from far and wide.

Despite the simplicity of this idea, many restaurants have settled for frozen fries coated in artificial ingredients. This approach is lazy and overlooks the potential of a well-prepared fry.

In New Jersey, for instance, you can find a decent sandwich almost anywhere, but only a few places serve it with fries that truly impress. If a sandwich came with extraordinary fries, the narrative would shift from the sandwich to the fries themselves.

Chapter 3: The Quest for the Perfect Fry

When searching for the best fries, many lists include options like sweet potato fries or those smothered in toppings. Yet, adding cheese or gravy doesn't enhance the fry; it merely hides its shortcomings.

Moreover, reviews of fast-food fries often miss the mark. Just as we don’t consider McDonald's when discussing quality burgers, we shouldn't include them in discussions about exceptional fries. Unfortunately, our culture has yet to truly appreciate the humble fry.

This gap presents a golden opportunity for innovative entrepreneurs and passionate food writers. Some local publications highlight chains that merely dress up average frozen fries, while others overlook fries entirely in favor of more obscure choices.

The ideal fry is simple: a quality, unadorned fried potato, seasoned perfectly and served in a paper cone—preferably with a glass of Champagne. This combination can create a delightful meal at any hour.

I encourage you to find your ideal fry. If you're interested in making your own, here's a recipe to guide you:

The Ultimate Pommes Frites Recipe

Experts agree that the secret lies in cooking the potatoes not once, but three times. Start with Idaho or Russet potatoes for their density and low moisture content. After cutting them to your desired size, rinse to eliminate excess starch.

Simmer the potatoes in water—never allowing it to boil—for 20 to 30 minutes until they are almost tender. Drain and let them dry on a rack for 15 minutes before freezing for an hour.

Heat your oil (preferably beef tallow or lard) to 250°F (130°C) and fry the potatoes until they puff slightly and gain a light color, about 5-10 minutes. Remove and place on a rack to cool, then freeze again for an hour.

When ready to serve, heat the oil to 375°F (190°C) and fry until golden and crisp, another 5-10 minutes. Season generously with sea salt and serve immediately.

The result should be a fry with a crunchy exterior and a soft interior, enhanced by the umami of the beef tallow. Consume them while they’re still hot, as their freshness fades quickly.

And don’t forget the bubbly!

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